Love for Koh Phangan

I suppose one of the greatest challenges for me with blogging is that I haven’t wanted to rub it in people’s faces that I am having the time of my life.  I’ve gone through such phases of not wanting to tell my story or thinking only the dramatic stuff is worth writing about. Ultimately I’m not writing for anyone but myself so I thought I’d write this general lovey piece about my favourite island.

I told you all about how we settled into Thai life, how Roscoe ended up in Koh Samui hospital, how many awesome friends came to visit us. So much of my time in Koh Phangan was spent not doing much at all. But that is what I loved about it.

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life's a beach

You fall into a lifestyle there that involves days on end of casual fun.  Meeting friends for beers by the pool bar, going for a meal at the night market, popping over to a secluded beach, or just hanging on your veranda.  It’s a life that is slow most of time, then a little frenetic and full of debauchery now and again.

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day glo for the Half Moon Party

Our last month or so on the island were some of the best times.  We made an effort to drive around the island, Roscoe riding his motorbike, me on the back, the wind in my hair. I had grown to love being a passenger on his bike. Much unlike how I used to be with my pillion panic in Chiang Mai.

In the last week I put on a curry feast that went down a treat.

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me and my trusty sous chef Roscoe

I had been promising to do this for a while.  We all pitched in a 100 baht and bought all the spices and ingredients I needed and I filled my friends bellies full of the grub I’ve grown up cooking.

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cuzza time

Another day, we travelled in convoy to the Lake Hut bar where I amused everyone with the worst faceplant you have ever witnessed. Oh the shame.

travel thailand We explored the island, climbed trees…

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Had drinks…

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And ate A LOT.

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We breathed in everything we loved about this island with a little bit of bittersweet sadness that it was going to end.

Koh Phangan isn’t just about the Full Moon. It’s about a community, idyllic beaches, lush forest, mouthwatering food and I can safely say, I was so very very happy there.

The worst example of ‘Thai Time’ Part 3

…Another hour went by.

And another.

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An umbrella would have been nice

Layla had gone into her bag at one point and noticed that the shitty rain mac had served no purpose at all – her entire handbag was wet.  Her purse, her money, even her passport.  I’ve got to hand it to her though, she just shrugged. There was nothing she could do.

Nine long, wet hours later, our boat arrived.  We pushed straight on and collapsed.

The saga wasn’t over yet though.  The storm was so bad the boat was heaving from side to side with such force we feared it would capsize.  We had both taken many boats around Thailand but this was like nothing else.  Everyone on board had that strained, slightly crazed look, green with nausea and exhaustion.

Around four hours later, it was pitch black outside but we realised the boat had  started to slow, we were here.  For some reason we weren’t able to fully dock though, the storm was making it impossible.

As everyone scuttled to grab their bags, I lost Layla. I knew she must have gone to the front to get her backpack. I only had my little daypack with me so I waited by the back door to get out.  Everyone was holding on to the seats as the boat thrashed around.  As the queue began moving out the door, I watched with sheer horror at the black waves – so high they were slamming the boat into the side of the pier.

My stomach dropped. I felt so vulnerable.  I couldn’t help but wish Roscoe was there at that moment, he always makes me feel safe.  Natural instinct told me this was too dangerous.

Just as I was thinking this, a huge wave hit the end of the pier and there was a quick flash of a man falling in.  The boat crashed once more against the side and I thought that was his body being crushed.  The girls in front of me screamed. Speechless, I covered my mouth, too scared to move.

Loud shouts in Thai halted anyone from disembarking the boat.  Men were scrambling trying to see where he was in the thunderous black water. My heart was racing a thousand beats a minute.  I can still feel the fear now.

Suddenly, thankfully, the man appeared.  He had managed to hold on to the pier somehow and climbed up, he was drenched but he smiled.  I’d like to say this made me feel better but I was shaking like a leaf. The sense of panic in the air was so thick you could taste it.

Moving everyone to the front of the boat where the waves weren’t crashing as hard, we now queued to get off.  Each person had to time their attempt with every swell, the board between the boat and pier, thrashing wildly.

I made it across.

But the trauma still wasn’t over.  I had forgotten how truly awful the Chumpon pier was.  It’s just a pile of Jenga sticks stuck together. I could feel the pier moving underneath us. The wood was so slippery, everyone was in flip flops and we all slipped and many fell.  It was the longest walk till the end, done in almost pitch black darkness whilst being pounded with rain.

At the other end I managed to find Layla.

I was in a right state. She hadn’t seen what I had seen and I’m glad she didn’t. I don’t think I’ll ever forget that flash of the man falling.

I still couldn’t quite believe that we were now 12 hours into our journey and only half way.

You’ll be glad to hear that we made it into Bangkok around 6am the next morning. We had to wait an age for a bus, the journey  took another 10 hours and we were spat out the other end, only an entire day and night late. Our dreams of a nice meal and night out where dashed. We passed out for a few hours before waking, enjoying a send off meal and then just like that, she was gone.

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Our rather tired send off meal...

I love Thailand but this was one journey I’d rather forget.

The worst example of ‘Thai Time’ Part 2

…Furious, freezing, and quite frankly completely over this whole experience, we now sat at the end of the pier, staring out into an angry ocean with ferocious waves lashing against the pier.

I joined the throngs of shouting would-be passengers, many from the original 9am group, vehemently angry that the staff had basically let people on who were from the later group, disregarding us early birds entirely.  Clearly nothing would make any difference, the boat was still late, no amount of shouting was going to get it here any sooner.

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waiting at the Pier as the skies turn...

We resorted to plonking our wet bottoms on the floor, cowering from the incessant ran.

Another hour went by.

Then two.

Around three o’clock I peeked out from under my hood to see another boat appearing. Thank fuck.  We were now six hours late, cold, wet and thoroughly pissed off.

The closer the boat came, the more pier staff seemed to appear. They were cordoning off the entry area. We quickly got in the queue, sensing something was up.  When the boat finally arrived we noticed they were turning people away, people who had the same colour ticket as us. What the fuck was going on?

Before we knew it, hundreds of passengers had pushed in front of us, waving their ticket and we were pushed and shoved not knowing what was going on.  Despite our ridiculous delay, they were only letting on the people who were originally due to leave at three.

The Kiri Wrath exploded.

I began screaming at the little Thai lady who was standing on the other side of the barrier.  She was totally overwhelmed and drenched to the bone. She had been crying for the last ten minutes and my sympathy had gone straight overboard. Why is she crying when we are the ones who have been here for six hours?

Furious 9am passengers were now jumping over the barriers. The staff weren’t able to control who was getting on at all. We didn’t understand any of the Thai they were spewing at us.

It was far too difficult to attempt to jump with our bags.  In hindsight, I’m glad we now didn’t as I’m guessing this boat wasn’t going to the same drop off point on the other side. If only the staff had told us that in the first place, there wouldn’t have been such mayhem. But this is where communication in Thailand often fails.  We were kept in the dark the whole time.

Two boats had now left and we were still on Koh Phangan soaking wet, being pummelled by the worst storm the island had seen in weeks. Layla and I kept giving each other exhausted but reassuring hugs, attempting to laugh at the sheer madness of it all. We should have been on our coach by now, out of the rain and on target for BKK.

And another hour ticked by…

Thinking back to friends and festivities

We’ve been pretty lucky on this two year trip. Not only have we been able to share our experiences through the ever so handy Skype, we’ve actually managed to draw our friends out to wherever we are. Granted, the place in question was the hedonistic island of Koh Phangan. I wouldn’t say we dragged them out there, who needs to be dragged to Thailand?  Living on this luscious island for seven months meant we had a base, somewhere for our friends to flock to.

First up was the legendary Dan. Roscoe’s longtime friend. Sadly, his arrival coincided with the dreaded foot slicing open incident at the Full Moon Party.

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Dan's arrival and an injured Roscoe

This meant that Roscoe was incapacitated for much of his trip. All the planned motorbike rides, scuba diving etc went straight out of the window. It’s safe to say that Dan took it in his stride and we loved having him there.

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Dan the Half Moon Party Hulk

Next up was the whirlwind bucket fest that was my mate Cressida’s visit.

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bucket time for Cress n Kiri

She brought along her gorgeous friends Alessandra and Tom and despite the solid inebriation I seem to remember that we had a legendary few days.

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Cress n co

Next came the Field sisters. Lucy had found her calling up in Northern Thailand working for a remarkable organisation that gathers volunteers to build schools.

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Amy and Lucy

Amy, had come out to see her sister and it just so coincided that Lucy would be having her holiday on Koh Phangan and we got to spend some quality time these beautiful girls.

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Amy, Kiri and Roscoe

And last but no means least, came my best mate Layla. She was in need of some serious r&r and let me say, we tore the island in two.

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Kiri and Layla reunite

Layla slotted right into our Koh Phangan family and we had the perfect mix of catching up on the beach and causing all sorts of heathenry.

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Kiri and Layla pon de beach

She timed her trip with Christmas and New Years and it was easily the best ‘alternative’ Christmas’s on record.

We got our full Christmas dinner…

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a slightly merry Kiri with my traditional dinner

had secret Santa…

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the wonderful Claire, Mrs Santa herself

played beach games…

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not the egg and spoon race winner

laughed till a little bit of wee came out…

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Mrs Sexy Santa

and then ended the night at the Full Moon Party.

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Christmas Full Moon Party

It’s hard to believe that was almost a year ago now… What wicked memories.

Travel Tidbits – Kids in the City: Half Term in Manchester

Travel Tidbits sponsored post goes to Catherine today. Just in time for half term for all you folks with little’uns.

As the saying goes, Manchester has everything but a beach. Given that half term falls towards the end of October this year, over the Halloween festivities, the demand for seaside fun is probably pretty low on the list, anyway.

When you’re looking for a vibrant city to take the kids to, consider a budget base from Travelodge’s hotel estate in Manchester. With so much to do in and around the centre, bagging a cheap deal will leave you with more cash to splash on fun days with your youngsters.

Choose to stay mid-week or for a long weekend to make the most of Manchester. The city transport system is superb – regular buses, trams, the metro and trains mean that you can get to any attraction that takes your fancy.

The Trafford Centre is easily accessible from Manchester Piccadilly Gardens using Manchester City Centre Express Service X50. Although this is a shopping haven for mums and their daughters, there is so much more to the Trafford Centre than meets the eye.

Behind the impressive main building, containing many of the shops and restaurants at the mall, Barton Square has a number of top spots for families.

LEGOLAND Discovery Centre is a small scale LEGO adventure for children of all ages. Including a LEGO City Fire Station themed soft play area, a 4D Bob the Builder cinematic experience, LEGO factory journey and more, children will easily be entertained for half a day or more. Take plenty of dosh – it’s hard to resist temptation in the LEGO store.

Make a day of your time in Trafford and choose to spend your remaining time at one of the other attractions nearby. Within the main Trafford Centre building, grab a bite of lunch at Nando’s, Pesto, or the child friendly joint, Giraffe.

On full tums, the Trafford Centre Odeon Cinema often runs kids screenings during school holidays and at weekends. Check online for more details a week in advance, if you want to prebook tickets. Alternatively, Laser Quest & The Rock or Paradise Island Adventure Golf – both within The Dome – are fabulous family fun.

The Lowry at Salford Quays provides workshops for children during half term and at weekends. Usually for free, or at a minimal cost, children can get stuck into being creative, expressing their artistic flairs without the worry of messing up your living room carpet.

On various days during October half term Lowry’s Half Term Little Artists provides materials for children to create arty souvenirs in Manchester. This holiday’s theme is Perfect Pets, admission is just £3.50. Older tweens and teens can check out the Half Term Drama Drop In, held on various days throughout the holiday.

Why not expand on the arty theme and pick up tickets to see the on stage adaptation of children’s favourite, Hairy Maclary. Running from Thursday 1 November until Saturday 3 November, child tickets are priced at just £5.50.

Check out Travelodge’s hotel estate in Manchester online and book a bargain break in the city for you and your youngsters.

Support Experience of a Lifetime

A friend of mine contacted me asking me to spread the word on this fabulous initiative called Experience of a Lifetime.

The idea is that Reckitt Benckiser set up an Experience of a Lifetime Facebook competition in 2011 and the lucky winners get to jet off to exciting locations all over the globe. The travelling soul in me couldn’t help but love this cause!

The first winner was Khaled who only went and walked the Inca Trail. That one’s on my bucket list for sure…

The remaining Experience of a Lifetime winners will be taking part in a Trek round Morocco, The Great Wall of China, Mount Kilimanjaro and a cycle around India so keep your eyes peeled!

While the winners enjoy their ‘Experience of a Lifetime’ they will be raising money for Save the Children.

A direct donation of $1 will be given to Save the Children by Reckitt Benckiser for every picture the winner can persuade people they meet along the way to upload of them onto the Experience of a Lifetime website. People at home can also get involved in supporting the participants by uploading pictures too. One lucky person who uploads a picture will also win $1,500 in the Reckitt Benckiser spectator lottery.

You can also track the winners and follow their progress as they trek around the world via a GPD device linked to the Experience of a Lifetime website. Nifty huh?!  The website has a dedicated section for each winner where they will be blogging about their experience, posting snaps and uploading videos.

I love this cause, so make sure you check it out.